No, this is not a review of the amazing movie Eye of the Needle with the even more amazing Donald Sutherland (RIP). But since I mentioned it, what a great movie! I must have been 13 or 14 when I watched it for the first time, and I’ve been in love with Donald (yes, first name basis) ever since.
But this is not a movie review (even though you should watch it—just saying). This is a public service announcement about how your sewing machine needle is much more important than you may realize. A dull needle can cause skipped stitches, and the wrong needle can cause snags and holes in your fabric.
It turns out sewing machine needles don’t last forever. In reality, they have a fairly short life span. I’ve read that a needle should be replaced every 8 hours of sewing. Seems excessive? Maybe. But a fresh needle—and the appropriate type for the type and weight of your fabric—can improve your machine’s performance and give you better results in your sewing.
Jump to:
Anatomy of a Needle
No, you are not going to be tested on this, but it’s nice to know the correct nomenclature so you look cool when talking to other sewists.
From top to bottom:
- Shank: The part that goes into the sewing machine. The round side is the front; the flat is the back.
- Shaft: The body of the needle. It goes from the bottom of the shank all the way to the tip of the needle.
- Groove: The channel or track that runs down the needle. It helps prevent the thread from snapping or fraying.
- Scarf: The small indentation or cutout on the back of the needle, just above the eye. It creates a small gap that allows your sewing machine’s hook to catch the thread and form a stitch.
- Eye: The small hole near the top of the needle through which thread is passed. The size and shape of the eye varies by needle type.
- Point: The very tip of the needle that pierces the fabric. The style of point varies by purpose.
Image source: Wikipedia
Different points are designed for different jobs: a sharp point cuts cleanly through woven fabrics, a ballpoint gently separates knit fibers instead of stabbing through them, and a wedge point is built for tougher materials like leather.
The Right Needle for Every Project
The kind of fabric you are working with will determine which needle you will need. Needles vary in size/thickness, point style, and hand vs. machine sewing. The right combination of characteristics will guarantee sewing success.
When Sewing Woven Fabrics
Universal Needle
Even though the name implies that they work for everything, these needles are used with woven fabrics. You might be able to use them with very stable knits like ponte de roma, but I’d stick with a jersey/ballpoint or stretch needle (see below) whenever sewing with knits.
Universal needles come in different sizes, and you select the correct one according to the weight of your fabric.
- Lightweight fabrics: 70/10 needle
- Midweight fabrics: 80/12 needle
- Heavyweight fabrics: 90/14 needle
Jeans/Denim Needle
As the name indicates, this needle is meant to be used with denim, but it is also recommended for very heavy or densely woven fabrics like canvas. Their thick shafts and sharp points make them ideal for thick layers of fabric without breaking or bending.
When Sewing Knit Fabrics
Jersey/Ballpoint Needle
If the universal needle is the go-to for wovens, the jersey/ballpoint needle is the choice when working with most types of knit fabrics. It has a more rounded tip, so instead of piercing the fabric, the jersey/ballpoint needle gets between the fabric fibers, preventing snags or runs. Much like the universal needle, this one also has different sizes for different fabric weights.
Stretch Needle
No mystery here—this needle works with stretchier types of knits. Think swimsuits, dancewear, and active wear—the stuff that really gets close to your body.
When Sewing Specialty Fabrics
Microtex/Sharp Needle
These are the sharpest needles money can buy. They are perfect for sewing with delicate fabrics like silk or organza, or for projects that require super-sharp, clean stitching. This is also the best needle to use when sewing light-weight vinyl material.
Super NonStick/Vinyl Needle
This needle has an anti-adhesive coating that resists sticky stabilizers, fusibles, and adhesives. It is also recommended if you are sewing thick vinyl and pleather. The anti-adhesive may leave a residue—which should not be an issue for us goth types, but if you sew white or light color fabrics, test on a scrap before using it.
Leather Needle
Use this needle when sewing leather, faux leather, paper, and any other heavy non-woven synthetics. All of these materials do not “regenerate”—once you poke a hole into them, the whole stays. Forever. Keep that in mind.
Topstitch Needle
Can you guess what this needle does? This needle helps you create nice, even stitches, making you proud of your topstitching.
Twin Needle
I guess there is no imagination in the naming of needles. Here, you have two needles mounted on one shank. This allows for two rows of stitches that are perfectly parallel to each other. Twin needles are great for creating very neat topstitching and hemming knits.
Best Needle Practices
- Check the instructions on the back of the sewing pattern you are working with. Many times, they will inform you of what kind of a needle you will need for the project.
- Skipped stitches and fabric puckering may be a sign of a dull needle. Change your needle often—every sewing project is a good middle ground between every 8 hours and never.
- Needles are cheap; fabric is not. Buy lots of needles, and buy a variety of them. You don’t want to have to run to a store or order something online in the middle of a project.
- NEVER THROW AWAY YOUR NEEDLES IN A TRASH CAN. You don’t want to hurt someone! Dispose of them like any other sharp object. I have an Altoids tin where I place all used my used needles and messed up pins.
- Having a needle break while you are sewing is a traumatic experience at best that can turn very dangerous if a piece of it ends up hitting you. NEVER, EVER sew over pins!!!!! You will hear sewists say they do exactly that, but I strongly recommend that you don’t. Instead of pins, baste your projects for more control.
Needle Wisdom
When I first started sewing, I probably went through the life of my first sewing machine without ever changing the needle it came with. Today, I change my needle after every project. I pay close attention to the type of needle I’m using. I don’t sew over pins, and I dispose of my used needles the right way.
When was the last time you changed your sewing needle? Can’t remember? Go change that needle—NOW!!!!!
How often do you change your needle? Let me know in the comments below.
I never actually thought about how important a needle choice is in sewing – I would always just use whatever I had on hand! I’m actually getting a new machine soon, so I’ll keep in mind using different needles depending on what I’m sewing.