I don’t wear pants. Let me correct this statement: I will sometimes wear jeans when I fly. Which really means—I don’t wear pants. While most of the world praises pants for being comfortable, I consider them exactly the opposite. They are too constricting and rough against the skin for my taste.
What does this have to do with this particular pattern review? Well, I have never sewn a fly front. All the skirts I’ve ever sewn take a back or side zipper, so this is a skill that I’ve never tried.
Honestly, the idea of sewing a fly front scares me a little. I know that once I try it, I’ll make it work. But why would I spend time on a skill that will not serve me?
Enter the Quebec Skirt by Itch to Stitch. I must not be the only one with fly front issues because ITS designed a skirt that has the look but not the effort of the front fly zipper. I’m into it.
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Pattern
The Quebec is a slim-fitting pull-on skirt designed for bottom weight stretch wovens. It has two front pockets (one of them with a coin pocket), two back patch pockets, and a back vent. Topstitching gives the look of flat-felled seams.
Size
The size should be selected according to the hip measurement. The assumption is that the hip is the largest measurement of the lower body—unless your tummy circumference is wider. Like mine.
Looking at the finished measurements, I selected a size 22 (W: 43 1/2 in; H: 48 7/8) fully aware that I was going to have to take a whole lot from the hip area. I am glad that I sewed a muslin because even after slicing a lot of inches from the hip, my first Quebec still did end up really big.
Fabric
I purchased two three-yard cuts of stretch cotton fabric, one black and one gray (my attempt to add “color” to my wardrobe) when a friend and I went exploring DTLA’s Fashion District back in November. I paid $5/yard for high quality fabric! (If you live in Los Angeles, I highly recommend a visit to the area!) I also needed some light weight cotton for the pocket lining. This is a great opportunity to use some large scraps that I know you have somewhere in your sewing space.
Construction
This skirt is a relatively easy project. The devil here is in the details, starting with cutting your pattern pieces. The front and back pieces are almost the same, but both right front and back pieces get extensions. One of the front pieces has the faux-fly front, and one of the back pieces has the slit extension. Which one is which, you ask? The right pieces as you wear the skirt. I marked the fabric as I had the pieces against my body just to make sure I got it right.
Once all pieces are cut and properly labeled, it is just a matter of following the instructions. Itch to Stitch patterns are a joy to sew because they are well drafted, and instructions are clear and easy to follow. There was no step I found particularly complicated, but it took me a few sessions to get the whole skirt finished because this project is a many-stepped thing.
My biggest problem was the size. I should have picked a smaller size because when my muslin was completed, it was HUGE. I took the side seams in, and the muslin fit beautifully, so I transferred the changes to my paper pattern pieces. Would you believe that I had to size the skirt down again? I still think the final skirt could use a bit of adjustment at the sides, but I don’t want to overfit it.
The Verdict
I LOVE this skirt hanging in my closet, but I don’t love it on me. This is a very different shape from what I’m used to. I also think it is too long, and I cannot find a shirt or blouse to balance it. But I really, really want to make it work. I’m gonna shorten this version once I have the energy to unpick the hem.
This is not the first time I sew something that I love in the abstract but cannot make it work as a garment in the real world. Have you had this experience? What do you do when this happens?
I have a similar tummy-to-hip ratio. As a result I find I wear flowy rayon maxi skirts with tunic tops because there’s a proportional “balance” (although it’s a lot ’90s). I can’t seem to get a balanced look with a shorter skirt. I do like a short skirt in dresses, which doesn’t seem to pose the same problem.
My sadest fail is a gorgeous rayon True Bias Roscoe blouse. (It’s full by design – no other way to get into it!) Tucked in there’s too much volume at my waist, and untucked there’s too much “tent” going on. So sad.
Melody/Lodi
Author
Hey, Melody! Flowy rayon dresses are my go-to to balance my figure. I love empire waist dresses; they make me feel the best. I also like A-line mini dresses. Both shapes make me feel good in my skin, and they are VERY comfortable.
I love the concept of the Roscoe, but I can totally see how “expansive” it is. I have a Simplicity pattern with the same lines, and when I sewed it, I just got lost inside of it. I never wore it eventually used the fabric to sew a muslin.
Hey ☺️👋
Have you tried culottes? Whooole different experience, they are trousers, based on a skirt pattern 🖤🖤
Author
Hey, Ami! I have never tried culottes. I looked around and found the Winslow by Helen’s Closet. It is a very popular pattern; lots of positive reviews online. I might try it. Do you have any patterns you would suggest?
I really like this skirt..I would like it a little longer..it looks good on you..maybe a red or dark purple shirt
Author
Thanks, Mary! I actually chopped an inch off the bottom after I took these pictures, and I think I like it better. I don’t have anything with this shape in my wardrobe; I guess I just need to wear the skirt to get used to it.
I think it looks great on you! The shirt you’re wearing it with looks great with it too. Maybe if the shirt was shorter, so you’re 2/3 skirt and 1/3 shirt?
Author
Thanks! Agreed on the length of the shirt. All my shirts and t-shirts are quite long, but with a skirt like this one, I need something that hits right above or at the hip. I’m gonna chop a sacrificial t-shirt and see how it looks.