
For a while, my sunglasses and reading glasses had been neatly lined up on a table waiting for the day when I would have time to sew them soft cases to keep them protected. I knew that I wanted to use some of my scraps to make cases, and I had already found the perfect tutorial for the project, but I could not find the motivation to get the cases done. I had a couple of dresses on my sewing list, and they seemed a lot more exciting than sunglasses cases.

Then, I, like millions of other people in the US and around the world, found myself spending a lot of time at home due to social distancing measures. The neatly-arranged line of sunglasses and reading glasses on the table became one of many little things that had to—and could—be handled right away. After a day of being a librarian from home, I moved from my workspace to my sewing studio (full disclosure: my living room, on both accounts) and followed the Baby Lock video tutorial.
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Pattern

There is no formal pattern for this project. The “pattern” for the case is a square or rectangle of fabric big enough to accommodate the glasses when the piece of fabric is folded in half. I created my patterns by placing a pair of glasses next to a piece of fabric, eye-balling the amount of fabric, and adding 1/4″ for seam allowances.
Fabric
This project is perfect for any fabric scraps you might have around. I had some large pieces of Halloween woven cotton fabric leftover from previous projects, but I am sure I could have used knit scraps. For the inside layer, I used some fleece I had from a couple of doggie vest I made for my friends’ furry babies.
Boneyard Skirt Love after Death Shirt
Construction
I followed this Baby Lock tutorial. The whole project can be completed with only a serger, but if you don’t have one, don’t worry. You can use a sewing machine and have the same result. I used both a sewing machine and a serger because the fleece made the whole thing quite shifty.
I started with two 10×10 pieces of muslin, one as the fashion fabric, and the other as the inside layer. Once the case was completed, it lacked structure. It was obvious that I would need to interface the outer layer.
I cut one piece of fashion fabric, one piece of interfacing, and one of fleece. This is the first time I used only steam to get the interfacing to stick to the fabric, and I had to ask myself why I did not try this sooner. Once the fabric had been interfaced, I placed the fabric and lining right sides together and sewed one of the sides—the will that will be the opening of the case.

If you are using fabric with a directional print, you will want to pay close attention to which side you choose to sew first. I decided that I was placing the top of the print as the opening of the case, so I used this side to create my first seam.

Once the first seam was done, I flipped the lining out and smoothed the sewn seam to get a crisp edge. I made the lining a tiny bit shorter than the fashion fabric so that when I lined up the bottom of both layers, the lining would be pulled inside. This makes for a very nice opening.

Because the fleece made the fabric burrito slippery, I used my sewing machine before I serged the edges. You can use only the sewing machine since no one will be peeking into the inside of your case. I like to know that everything looks finished even if the seams will forever be hidden from me.

Sewn Edges Serged Edges
Be careful not to sew the opening of the case! Once I had sewn the side and bottom edges, I flipped the whole thing inside out, and my case was done! I used a knitting needle to get the corners out, but if you don’t have one, you can use a chopstick or a pencil.

No more naked sunglasses in my purse! No more reading glasses exposed to the elements! This project is quick and easy—and it is a great way to use up a whole bunch of scraps. It is perfect for beginner sewists, and it might be a great way to keep kids and teens occupied for a while during these homeschooling times.

Such a great little project! I should really make some two, my sunglasses have no protection.
What do you mean with “using steam only to get the interfacing stuck to the fabric”? Steam only? Not pressing the steaming iron? Up to now I thought interfacing should only (!) be fused with a non-steam iron.
Author
Thanks! I have always used a damp cloth and high heat to get interfacing to fuse to fabric; this time around, I used the steam setting of my iron and hit each spot with steam three, four times. It worked beautifully!
Aaah, now I understand! I’ll try steam ironing next time too – the interfacing I have doesn’t work well with just heat and no moisture. I guess your way works better!