As a goth, I’m part crow. As part crow, I cannot resist shiny things. Put something shiny in front of me, and I just lose ir. The expression “oh, shiny!” is a direct quote from any time I’m face to face with sparkles.
My everyday life does not lend itself to glitter or sequins, but when the holiday season comes around, you better believe that I turn into a disco ball.
Sequined fabric is perfect for a statement dress for an end-of-year cocktail party or a NYE bash. Anything looks better in sequins!
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Types of Sequined Fabric
Sequined fabrics can be woven or knit, and there are two kinds: the sewn-on sequin kind and the glued dot kind. Sewn-on sequin is more difficult to work with, so if this is your first time working with sequins, do yourself a favor: Buy glued dot sequin fabric.
Pre-washing
Check the care instructions when you buy your fabric. Some sequin fabrics can be hand washed and set to line dry. Some need to be dry cleaned.
All the sequin fabric I’ve worked with has been okay to be washed. I hand washed them with cold water and placed them flat on a drying rack.
Pattern Selection
You can sew most patterns using sequined fabric, but I would suggest choosing something more streamlined. Avoid garments with lots of darts, seams, or pleats. Because sequins create bulk, you will have to remove them from these areas. This can be a daunting experience.
Choosing something simple like a shift dress, a cardigan, or even trainers will let the sequins shine—and save you time and frustration. A pattern like the Kenedy Dress by Seamwork Patterns is perfect; its simple lines and sew seams are the perfect canvas for the sequins to tale center stage.
Consider a Lining
Sequins can feel very scratchy against the skin, and many times the fabric to which they are glued or sewn is very sheer. In either case, you may consider sewing a lining.
My Kenedy dress is lined with mesh lining—the same type I use to line swimwear. The black one was lined with some peachskin polyester.
Cutting
Do not use your nice fabric shears here. Use your craft scissors. Sequins are plastic, and what do we know about plastic? It will dull your nice pair. The same goes if you use a rotary cutter: You will have to replace your blade after working with sequins.
Oh, and you will find sequins hiding everywhere. Forever.
Marking and Pinning
Dot sequin fabric doesn’t pose too many challenges when marking or pinning. Sewn-on sequin fabric may require tailor’s tacks to transfer darts or pleats.
Needle Choice
Choose the needle according to the type of fabric you are sewing (woven or knits). If you are planning to sew through the sequins, pick a thicker needle—90/14 or a jeans needle will do. I would be very careful, though. Slow and slow win the race here.
Sewing
The prevailing wisdom when working with sequined fabrics is to remove any sequins from areas where your needle will piece the fabric. This is to avoid bulk as well as accidents. Your needle may break if it hits a sequin just right. You might ever wear glasses or other kind of protective eye gear as you sew.
My rules of sewing with sequins are:
- If I am working with glued sequins or a fabric with low sequin density, I don’t remove any sequins.
- If I am working with sequins that will cause a lot of bulk, I remove them from seam allowances, darts, and hems.
- If I try on the garment and the sequins feel scratchy, I’ll remove the offending ones.
If you choose to throw caution to the wind and go at those sequins with abandon, make sure to sew slowly and use eye protection. Better safe than sorry is a cliche because it is true.
Pressing
Don’t. Sequins are plastic. What happens when place plastic next to a heat source? It melts. So don’t.
If you feel that you seams are not as flat as you’d like, you can try a very low iron setting and press on the wrong side of the fabric with a pressing cloth. I’d suggest using this method on a scrap before moving on to your garment.
How Will You Use Sequined Fabric?
Why be the belle of the ball when you can be the disco ball? Sequins are glorious! They make everything look fabulous. And they don’t have to be restricted to holiday parties or NYE. Let’s normalize wearing sequins to the supermarket. Who’s with me?
